Constantly filthy with filth (especially damp, acidic or salty one) and very rarely washed.These areas are the least likely to become starting points of rust, unless either one of the following conditions exist:.Visible areas of the underbody and of the chassis.A typical example in a Jimny 3 are threaded holes in the rear floor for the rear seats and for the front anchors for the rear seat belts.Rust then spreads from the hole around to the rest of the body. Moisture gets trapped between the bolt and the hole (inside the threads), rusting both the bolt and the hole itself.Threaded holes in the underbody which house a bolt.Also, tiny abrasive particles of dust and sand can get trapped in these unsealed joints and overlaps, slowly abrading the paint in them due to vibrations and then exposing bare metal.Moisture usually gets trapped and stays for extended periods of time in such joints if they have not been properly seam sealed.Panel joints (seams) are points where two or more metal sheets meet or overlap.Welds have a specific metallurgic composition which is highly susceptible to rusting, and require special anti-rust treatment.Therefore, preventive anti-rust treatment of the cavities should be priority number one when combating rust.Once rust develops in a cavity, it is very difficult or (usually) impossible to eliminate - only to slow down to a certain extent.This is especially true if cavity's drain holes get clogged with filth, preventing any further drainage.If the cavity contains dust, dirt and salt deposits, they will hold moisture for very, very, very long periods of time once they get wet, in some cases never drying out.The reason is that the interior of cavities tends to stay wet for extended periods of time after water gets inside (even if the water does drain through their drain holes), as the interior is concealed from winds, ventilation and heat.These are the most likely areas by far.Cavities in the body and in the chassis.Statistically and generally for any vehicle, the most common "starting" areas where rust begins to develop and progress from further on (most common first): Usually rear wheel arches, in combination with rusty floor below the rear seats.Usually where left front passenger's left foot is located and where right front passenger's right foot is located.Floor between front seats and the engine compartment.Visible only after removing the mouldings (risky).Behind side plastic mouldings (claddings), especially around rear wheel arches.Outer side visible only after removing large plastic sill covers (risky) On Jimnys 3, inner side visible from underneath the car.Sills below the side doors (and behind plastic sill covers for Jimnys 3).Rust usually starts around the threaded holes in the floor for the bolts which secure the rear seats and rear seat belts anchors to the vehicle, and also at the connection points between the floor and rear inner wheel arches.Visible only after removing the rear seats (quite simple).Body floor below the rear seats (and especially where it meets the rear inner wheel arches).Visible only after removal of the rear bumper (relatively simple).Body behind the rear bumper (and below rear vertical lamps for Jimnys 3).Various factory welding points on the chassis and on the axles as well.Visible only after removing front wheel arch liners (relatively simple) or removing the head lamps (not so simple).On Jimnys 3, body just behind front driving lamps.Easy to see from underneath after a good wash, unless the underbody had been "protected" (mucked) with bitumen / tar or some other gunk.Body / cabin and suspension carriers (mounting points) on the chassis.11 General procedure of underbody rust proofingĪreas of all Jimny generations which are most susceptible to rust (from most common to less common):.
9 Importance of existing rust removal and bare metal surface etching.8.4.3 Brushing or scraping the cavities.6.2 Dismantling everything from the frame.4.3 Front floor sections below side door window moving controls.